Textiles

Fashioning Empire in Adelaide. The J. Miller Anderson Wedding Gown of 1881: Fashion, Labour, and Aspiration in Colonial South Australia

Described at the time as ‘the first of its kind produced in these colonies’, the wedding gown examined in this article embodies significance beyond its sartorial form; it constitutes a multi-faceted historical artefact positioned at the nexus of design, commerce, technology, identity and social history. Petrina Killey examines the gown's materiality, background and symbolic resonance within the colonial context.

Thomas Rice’s Sampler, Lyndoch Valley, South Australia

Embroidered samplers worked in various stitches by girls or young women to demonstrate their needlework skills. Typically, samplers include the alphabet, some mottoes, and simple pictures and patterns, often with the maker’s name and the date.This mid-Victorian sampler is a tribute to Thomas Rice (1808–1887), patriarch of the Rice family in South Australia, with an elevation view of his single-storied home Rose Cottage at Lyndoch in the Barossa, plus plans of its fenced stockyard andgarden, with paths and ornamental borders.

Portière 1901, lost and found. Arts and Crafts needlework in South Australia

From either ends of the globe, Portière 1901 has been rediscovered. Over 120 years ago, it was created to commemorate the colony of South Australia joining the Federation of Australia. The Portière was commissioned and made by the first women in the world to gain both the right to vote and to stand for parliament. The impressive 233.0 x 178.0 cm embroidered silk object represents the pinnacle of a golden age of Art Needlework embroidery. However, questions surround it. Just seven years after their enfranchisement, why did South Australian women give members of the British royal family an object that was ostensibly a domestic curtain? Even more intriguing, how did it fall so far into obscurity within the Royal Collection itself that when enquiries were made in 2023, it could no longer be located? This article tells the forgotten story of its origins and in doing so, places it back into the colonial history of the Australian Arts & Crafts Movement.

Making the winning crochet design of 1924

Peter Lane’s article, ‘Australian filet crochet, The Weekly Times Book of Patterns’ that appeared in May 2024 Australiana, included biographies of the crochet designers and judges of the newspaper’s crochet competition. But it did not record the journalist, who used the pseudonym ‘A Mother’. By chance, while looking for WWII crochet patterns recently, he found her name. Here Peter reveals who she was, while Rachel Mansfield shows how she used modern technology to re-create the original crochet design.

Australian filet crochet, The Weekly Times book of patterns

Australiana is sometimes accused of being exclusive, publishing articles only on fine, expensive, early-19th century art and artefacts associated with famous men or families from the Eastern States. South Australian contributor Peter Lane delves into the makers and designers of early 20th century crochet lace, who entered a crochet competition run by a Melbourne newspaper. All were women, many of them married in working- class families. All the women were proud of their delicate crochet work, which brought a degree of creativity, artistry and refinement to their otherwise basic homes. One of them, Nell Dyson, even walked five miles (8 km) into town (and back) to get cotton thread, while her husband had the luxury of a push bike to ride into town to post her entry in The Weekly Times crochet design competition, an event that the proprietors hoped would encourage aspiring lace artists to incorporate Australian motifs into their designs.

Queensland to a T Collection and Exhibition, State Library of Queensland

Prodigious Australiana contributor Glenn R. Cooke is well known through his professional interests in Queensland art, decorative arts and social history. But that does not define Glenn; he loves ballroom dancing and gardens, as well as pursuing a sideline in collecting artefacts relating to his home state. This includes 1540 souvenir textiles which have been acquired by the State Library of Queensland. Its current exhibition presents 214 printed tea towels to show how the Sunshine State has been presented in popular imagery over the last 70 years.

Early school samplers from Van Diemen’s Land

As part of their education in useful arts, schoolgirls sewed their own individual samplers, which are also important indicators of progress in educational methods and reach. The format is fairly standard, with the letters of the alphabet in either or both lower and upper case and basic numbers, plus the girl’s name, date and possibly institution or location. The girls had some scope for originality in colours, subjects and decorative motifs, so no two are the same. Religious motifs reflect not just a school environment but a different era. Because they were done by children, the work is usually quite primitive. This may be a naïve folk art, but early, documentary examples fetch high prices from avid collectors.

The Ransom sampler

A sampler, and the von Stieglitz family Bible in which it was kept for many years, were sold at auction in Launceston in 2016. The sampler consists of stitching on a square of linen cloth 6 inches (15.2 cm) in width by 61⁄2 inches (16.5 cm) in length, edged with blue ribbon (plate 1). The stitches used are largely cross stitch and chain stitch, with the pattern being letters of the alphabet, both upper and lower case and numbers.

Ernest Worrall and his Anglo-Boer War khaki keepsake

Dr Annette Gero’s article “Wartime quilts” in the May 2015 Australiana stimulated Peter Lane to contact her about an Anglo-Boer War keepsake. Trooper Ernest Worrall of South Australia had drawn images and words on this rather small scrap of khaki fabric in 1902. Mementoes of that war are rare and Dr Gero included it in her exhibition at the Manly Art Gallery and Museum. Here Peter reconstructs the sad life of Trooper Worrall.

Wartime quilts

World War I began 101 years ago. Galleries all around the world, including many in Australia, are having exhibitions with memories of this war. The Gallipoli campaign is particularly significant to Australians and New Zealanders this year, with the centenary on the first landing on 25 April 1915, and the withdrawal of the last Allied troops in January 1916. Dr Annette Gero is curating an exhibition of war quilts, and here she reveals some of the quilts that will be displayed at Manly Art Gallery and Museum from July.

J. Miller Anderson & Co, maker, Wedding Gown, front, 1881… Photo © Artlab Australia
Fashioning Empire in Adelaide. The J. Miller Anderson Wedding Gown of 1881: Fashion, Labour, and Aspiration in Colonial South Australia

Fashioning Empire in Adelaide. The J. Miller Anderson Wedding Gown of 1881: Fashion, Labour, and Aspiration in Colonial South Australia

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietyAugust 22, 2026
Thomas Rice’s Sampler, Lyndoch Valley, South Australia

Thomas Rice’s Sampler, Lyndoch Valley, South Australia

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietyAugust 1, 2025
Making the winning crochet design of 1924

Making the winning crochet design of 1924

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietySeptember 10, 2026
Portière 1901, lost and found. Arts and Crafts needlework in South Australia

Portière 1901, lost and found. Arts and Crafts needlework in South Australia

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietySeptember 9, 2026
Australian filet crochet, The Weekly Times book of patterns

Australian filet crochet, The Weekly Times book of patterns

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietyMay 1, 2024
Queensland to a T Collection and Exhibition, State Library of Queensland

Queensland to a T Collection and Exhibition, State Library of Queensland

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietyNovember 1, 2022
Early school samplers from Van Diemen’s Land

Early school samplers from Van Diemen’s Land

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietyAugust 1, 2022
The Ransom sampler

The Ransom sampler

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietyAugust 1, 2021
Ernest Worrall and his Anglo-Boer War khaki keepsake

Ernest Worrall and his Anglo-Boer War khaki keepsake

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietyAugust 25, 2026
Wartime quilts

Wartime quilts

Australiana SocietyAustraliana SocietyAugust 25, 2026